You don't need a "real" quantum computer to mess around with quantum computing and learn how it works any more than you need a supercomputer to play around with algorithms and learn how they work.
most experts in that field do not have access to a quantum computer. For the longest times it was a very theoretical field.
Having access to a physical machine will not help you for 99% of the knowledge you can acquire in that field right now.
i think you can. A very simple one - an optical based one, one qubit. Several thousand dollars of equipment of a typical university photon quantum entanglement lab.