Yea, sadly they've gone full enterprise over the past few years. Once upon a time they were a small scrappy software company with both a price list and order form right on their website as well as a free Home license which let you use FME for 'play' and training at home. Now it's all "cloud hosted", "contact our sales team" and "dynamic subscription prices, tailored to your needs". Still it's a fantastic pieces of software once you manage to buy it.

For what it's worth I seem to recall base licenses started at roughly $3500 per user for the desktop version of their software last time they had a price list.