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Designing my own watch (2020) (willem.com)
225 points by handfuloflight 11 months ago | hide | past | favorite | 140 comments


Totally in love with the idea of building a custom watch. I’ve done it too and it only cost $80!

Body $30 https://www.casio.com/us/watches/casio/product.A158WA-1/

Movement $40 https://www.crowdsupply.com/oddly-specific-objects/sensor-wa...

I’ve added a new astronomical face and rejigged the world clock for my rellies (showing AW for Australian Western time.) Dirt simple changes but it’s thrilling to have something that’s partly mine. Because it is based on the Casio body it’s also an iconic design classic too.

I believe a version with tzdata in it is in the works by the author. My thanks to everyone involved in the project and everyone on HN who got me into this hobby!


The author also recently designed a custom LCD as a drop in replacement [1] and I can't wait to get one. I've decided smartwatches are too expensive and short lived for me, but I think this version, with just a little bit of programmability, is gonna be perfect.

[1]: https://www.crowdsupply.com/oddly-specific-objects/sensor-wa...


WOW! I didn't know! I love my oldsql casio watch, and also wished for a hackable version of it. This looks perfect!

Thank you so much for sharing.


I want this but also with a RF modem so I can send Morse code to nearby nerd friends.


The Casio watches have a little buzzer and the standard SensorWatch codebase has a modem that uses it to send data:

https://github.com/joeycastillo/Sensor-Watch/blob/0ad5fa4733...


Lol that's cool. It would be hard to do secret messages but maybe I could do an audio remote control with this.


Have a TOFU (trust on first use) mode that exchanges a key with the receiver very quietly? Regular transmissions are all at FULL VOLUME and assume the receiver has the key.

So much fun to be had!


Not sure if the watchmaker's line-up changed in 4 years passed, but here's a nearly identical watch, the first hit in their "customized" category - https://www.ochsundjunior.swiss/my-ochs-und-junior/?watch=11...

At the very least this makes author's watch rather less unique and custom than described. Perhaps it was an one of a kind back in 2020, but it's not anymore.

The cost is around $9K.


OP’s watch appears to be a customized variant of the annual calendar LIGHT, which was introduced in 2016. The 36mm case is unusual, not one of the standard sizes, but O&J has been willing to do 36mm cases on request since ~2010 with certain models. So—like all O&J watches prior to 2020 or so¹—the cosmetics are fully customized, but the mechanism is shared with other O&J watches².

¹ since then they also have a collection of non-customizable watches

² this undersells it a bit; most O&J watches (like mine!) are "just" customized realizations of a set of basic designs (which is a good thing, IMO, because those designs work better than what most buyers would come up with). But many of those designs were developed collaboratively in response to specific customer requests. I was in the workshop in 2018 and saw an early prototype of what became the day/night watch (https://www.ochsundjunior.swiss/watches/day-night/) in development for the customer who had proposed it. If you skim through their blog, you'll find lots of interesting projects done for customers with varying degrees of customization (I really love this day/night done with no conventional face: https://www.ochsundjunior.swiss/dirks-day-night/)


It isn't super clear from first read, but that design is not by the author, but by the company. He gave them specs for what he wished for in a design, and they came up with a design.

I guess they now own and can continue to sell that design. They've gone all in on online customization at least: https://www.ochsundjunior.swiss/customizer-1-1/?watch=112&cu...


There's a Portuguese watch company using this same style since 2016: https://isotopewatches.com/products/isotope-gmt-zero-degrees

I love their timepieces.


This company is the one he mentioned he worked with to create the watch. He gave them the specifications and they made the watch.

This is not a hand-made watch. It's just bespoke made to his specification and he never states its unique and limited edition 1 of 1.

This does however make it incredibly custom as stated as he gave the specifications, and the company made it for him, literally customisation I'd say!


With pretty much same requirements, I settled in the Casio LCW-M100TSE-1AER. Very simple, totally autonomous, no need to adjust time even…

Better would be a Seiko with GPS, but too expensive.


I have exactly the same watch for exactly the same reasons. With saphire glass and a titanium case and strap, it's very light and after two years of being worn constantly, it's still completely unmarked. It's also nicely inconspicuous - it's "just a casio", but those who know, know.


Exactly... add to that the requirement that I want to have the peace of mind of being able to accidentally bang the watch against the metal poles of the subway, etc., without damaging it in some ways, and I always end up with a G-Shock.


It also has a more complicated (chronograph) brother, the LIW-M610. It's fun to see the hands in the subdials spin around as you change functions and timezones.


I also wear this watch every day and have done for a couple of years now. It’s the perfect watch- completely autonomous time, solar powered, classic look while still having digital functions. I love not having to worry about ever setting the time or changing the battery. And it’s waterproof!

The sapphire glass means I don’t treat it especially well and it looks brand new.


For a digital-only lightweight alternative that does everything a watch should do, the Casio F-E10 is ideal.


I wouldn't consider that an alternative to a solar radio watch.


The rather mild water resistance on that model always has me doubting..


Unless you're a diver, it should be OK. I've never taken mine off for swimming or sailing and not had a problem in two years.


The Casio LCW-M100TSE-1AER is a solid choice!


Original author here from 2020:

With regard to value and cost I would like to add the factor 'time' to the discussion. A watch like this can easily last for decades, possibly longer (and it will retain some value, possibly even appreciate in value, over time).

This is a sharp contrast with 'consumables' like most smartwatches and smartphones, that (given enough time) will add up in costs, too. I am not saying one should "do this or that" - but value/cost is a funny thing when you think of it in more than one dimension.


You've got the money, you wanted to buy something nice for yourself, and you like luxury watches. Nothing wrong with that - plenty of people buy a $50,000 car when a $40,000 car has the same number of wheels.

But for my $200 Garmin to "add up in costs" to your $10,000 watch would require some extremely creative accounting.

Although I suppose time does factor into every discussion of watches, in a way :)


This. I have never bought a watch for more than $300 and I would have to buy 33 $300 watches to get to $10,000. If I live 60 more years, that's one watch every 22 months for the rest of my life.


Think about how long you'd live if you bought cheaper watches.


Those Garmins will be worth 0 in 10 years, or 30. These ones will keep working and could be worn by his grandchildren easily, if basic care is taken and they are not stolen or lost.Their value could be low or also very, very high.

Passions should not be primarily measured in TCO or returns, then no vacation ever makes any sense since you just spend money, no expensive clothing, no expensive car, no restaurants just eating cheap salads whole life and so on. Also one should live in tiniest cheapest shed to maximize earnings. You see where this goes


> Those Garmins will be worth 0 in 10 years, or 30.

Sure, but even if I replace my Garmin every 5 years for the next 100 years, I'll only have spent $4000, so I'll still be $6000 better off.

Or if I put that $10,000 into an investment that returns 2% above inflation? I can have a new Garmin every year and 100 years later, I'll also still have $10,000

And if I'm needing a new Garmin every year I'm either very careless or very passionate about having the latest gadgets. So will that $10k watch really be my last ever watch? Almost certainly not.

> Passions should not be primarily measured in TCO or returns

Yes, I agree - as I said in the first paragraph of my post. If you're buying a luxury watch because you like luxury watches, there's nothing wrong with that.

But pretending a $10k watch saves you money is just wishful thinking.


Record players, CD players, and MP3 players were meant to become worthless after the advent of each successive device with the final myth being the idea that streaming would consolidate all the spending into the smartphone. These rumors have always been greatly exaggerated. Now, kids are buying up old iPods, CD players, and your uncle’s Technics receiver (mid even for its day) above their historical MSRP.

There are three questions at issue:

1. Is the point of this watch to be a sound, efficient investment? No, clearly it is meant to be a personal luxury object and experience. It’s ok to indulge, but seem to agree that this watch is an extravagance —and thus it is wonderful but fundamentally beyond purely rational.

2. Is this watch a good investment, money-wise? It would be if it appreciated, and it may. It could also wind up (ha) depreciating, as ochs and junior make many similar pieces and OP is wearing it actively enough to damage it.

3. Is a series of lower end, 4-year supported, shorter lasting goods ($500 for 4 years) a worse decision than one, long lasting, analog artifact ($100000 for 80+ years)? I think that’s up to each person.


There is no point in trying to justify the cost in counting the BOM, taking your watch for example, it uses a generic ETA caliber 2892-A2 (the "engine" in the watch) which is used in watches that cost 10% up to x10 of yours while it cost only $300-500.

I look at watches as a piece of jewelry more than an engineering item, they might or might nor keep their value but I like how they look, make me look and make me feel especially if there is a nice story behind the watch.


Don’t feel like you should apologise for the expense.

I see people driving round in cars that cost $100k+. I think this is insane, but it’s relatively normal.

Spend your money on things that make you happy.


I recently went into my local Ford dealer, and they had a Bronco in the showroom with a sticker price of $98,000.


> Don't be afraid to make decisions for yourself. Wear the watch you want to wear. If it doesn't exists, don't panic. Thanks to the wonders of our connected world, you can find people that will help you!

Good advice for people that have money to commission custom pieces from lauded swiss companies.

Meanwhile I'm wearing the watch I got for "free" (ended up still costing for maint/repairs), and trying to get my mortage paid.


No need to pay someone, you can make one. What do you need? A secondhand manual pantograph mill someone is getting rid of for a few hundred dollars and a little jewellers lathe?

And of course a book on watchmaking.

We've been making watches for about half a millennium now, and if a craftsman in the 1500s could do it, surely a curious man with semi-modern secondhand tools from the 70s can too.

I'm going to do exactly this eventually and it's going to "cost" me maybe as much as a flagship phone all up, time and effort not included.


You're right if you're aiming to make a 16th century pocket watch. Anything approaching a modern wristwatch calibre is much more time and money intensive.

The majority of the cost will be time and effort. I think George Daniels estimates it to be 3000 hours for a skilled amateur to make the tourbillion pocket watch described in his book. This number will be decreased if you forego the tourbillion. But even so, other equipment costs: jewelling press, staking set, poising tools, depthing tool, all kinds of abrasives, oils and greases. The largest tool cost will be lathe attachments like collets, cross slide, milling attachment, wheel and pinion cutters. You may be able to cut wheels and pinions on the pantograph but probably not to the precision needed for a wristwatch, maybe for a large pocket watch or clock. Maybe you could put the lathe on the milling table to index the stock and use the mill to cut?

That's not counting all the theory needed to design and build a movement from scratch.

My advice would be to steal the going train, escapement and balance from an existing movement and fabricate the remaining parts


A good starting point is to try to build a pin-pallet escapement design, like Timex used in the 60s and 70s. This is largely doable at home with a 3D printer and basic tools, e.g.: https://incoherency.co.uk/blog/stories/the-watch-project.htm... Getting to modern accuracy is hard though.


When you do this I'd love to read about it.


They're not that expensive (in the world of luxury watches, anyway), and they are really cool, but the mere thought of paying thousands of dollars for a fragile thing that I wear on my wrist that I will probably bang against a door handle or something within a week is making me sweat.

The alternative option is to order some parts from AliExpress and make your own custom watch. Elliot Coll has some videos on how to do that on YT.


I looked at their website and it seemed like it was the price of a modest car? (20,000 Euro).


Their regular watches start at around 2k, and custom watches at 7k. Which is a lot of money, but it's at the lower end for luxury watches.


And here’s me thinking I paid a lot for my watch which was around £400.

It’s funny how the word “luxury” and “expensive” means different things for different people.


"Luxury" primarily means conspicuous consumption. You don't pay $20k because the watch is worth $20k - you pay $20k because being able to show other elite socialites that you paid $20k is worth $20k. Needless to say, the watchmakers make out like bandits.


I think it's "you pay 20k because you don't care how much you pay as long you get a good product, unless the cost is at least in hundred thousands." Elite showing off behaviour seems to be either about cool unusual things that others "couldnt do" or elite women dominating poor women.


You’re missing the point massively of both the authors decision and my comment too.


If you look at https://www.watchrecon.com/ good get an idea what people spend on watches if they are into (collecting) watches


Why do you think luxury watches are fragile? Most of these watches are built to last decades and are easily repairable.


A mechanical watch with its springs and gears may be more repairable than a digital watch with a circuit board, but I wouldn't consider the former to be "easily" repairable. Mechanical watch repair requires a lot of specialized tools and skills that a normal person, even one who is wealthy, is not going to have.

If you hire a repair shop to do it, expect your luxury watch to also cost luxury repair prices. The price has nowhere to go but up as I doubt there are a lot of people lining up for watchmaker's school.

When I got a passed-down luxury watch repaired at an authorized repair center, it costs more than the purchase price of all my other watches combined.


Materials used in more luxury watches tend to be more fragile than something you might use in a cheaper watch. ie a gold case is going to be more susceptible to scratches than a steel case, etc.


The gold used in luxury watches is usually a lower-gold alloy than jewelry, 14 or 18 carat (example [1]) and thus have a hardness of anywhere from 85-165, or up to 230 if annealed [2], which is comparable, or harder than common stainless steels at 140-180[3].

[1]:https://www.rolex.com/watches/new-watches/sky-dweller [2]:https://24carat.co.uk/frame.php?url=hardnessofgoldalloys.htm... [3]:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vickers_hardness_test


What's wrong with scratches? Even gold watches are not using soft gold... they are very durable. Stainless steel watches are pretty much bombproof. Also everything is typically replaceable/repairable (e.g. surface can be polished). After a service, it comes back looking like new.


I just don't want to baby it. My uncle has a Rolex, he wears it only on special occasions and sends it in for service every few years. Which is fine, he loves his watch, it's a point of pride for him to treat it with care, but that's not what I want from a watch. That's all. No disrespect to expensive watches, it's just not for me :-)

I want a watch that I can wear everywhere and anytime, bump against walls and stuff, and if it breaks, I don't feel bad.


I'd say that's how you're supposed to wear a watch, even a luxury watch. Babying it defeats the point completely. I wear my Rolex or Omega every day :). Scratches add character and history! I'll be giving my watches to my kids when I die, scratches and all.


Agreed entirely. My grandfather’s 5513 desk diver was passed down to me. It had scuffs and scratches and the lume had long since stopped glowing and turned to a mustard color.

And while I never planned to have any of that changed because I thought it added to the cool factor, the appraisal guaranteed that decision. I was recommended a local watchmaker who could service the movement only and ensure the seals were all intact. Or I could send it back to Rolex for servicing where they’d polish the case, relume the numbers, and swap the acrylic dome for sapphire - and by doing so chop ~50% off the value of the watch.

It turns out collectors love patinas and scratches and for a 60 year old watch to look its age.


Plenty of folks don’t want a scratched watch and I imagine it would devalue one on the secondary market.


It doesn't devalue much at all. In fact most Rolex bought 20 years ago are now worth 200-300% their purchase price, scratches and all. After a service, they look practically new as almost everything can be replaced/brought back to like-new quality (and gets replaced in a service).

This isn't like your expensive Apple item that becomes disposable/worthless after 4 years :).


FWIW, I’ve worn my O&J every day for seven years, banged it against all sorts of things, and never had any issue (and mine is 42mm and silver, so both less durable than OP’s titanium and much larger and more likely to get banged on stuff). It’s really not a big concern.


Well, you have a mortgage, meaning you at one point had waaay more disposable income than even more luxurious variant of those discussed would cost.

Some folks put money into ferraris or porsches and then race them, or watch them appreciate (if smart & lucky). Or boats. Some folks spend money otherwise. Half of this forum spent similar amount on just non-mandatory technical gadgets in past few years.

This watch making is actually an investment that can bring nice returns in the future, barring damage/theft/loss happens. Also an interesting skill learned, plus skill explained to others. I can't do anything but appreciate such folks.


How does this comment contribute to the discussion?

The guy is happy about his watch and goes into great detail explaining how it works and how it's made and why.

Why comment in such a negative way? I can't afford a 20k watch either, but so what? Why such jealousy?

You have contributed nothing, yet made the internet ever so slightly worse.


The post for most parts was neat, not disagreeing there. But wrapping it up as some sort of empowering life lesson feels so utterly out of touch that I felt like reminding that it is huge privilege to be able to do this sort of thing. Someone not wearing custom luxury watch is most likely not due being afraid to make decisions for themselves. Attributing the ability to do this sort of thing to "connected world" and "people willing to help" is just distasteful to me.

It doesn't help that the whole post is titled "Designing my own watch" while the actual design work was seemingly mostly done by ochs; mixing up doing something and commissioning something done is another of those things that has echoes of ages past, and not in a good way.

For the authors defence I do say that 5 years ago was slightly different time and back then these sort of things could pass more easily.


Thanks Zokier for your comments, original author here:

The post for most parts was neat, not disagreeing there. But wrapping it up as some sort of empowering life lesson feels so utterly out of touch that I felt like reminding that it is huge privilege to be able to do this sort of thing.

Never was it my intention to provide one with "overarching life lessons". Your reaction points out that I still have a lot to learn in refining the tone of my English use. As non-native English language user, I use my blog to "hone my skills". You helped me learn, for which I am grateful.

For what it is worth, I use the knowledge and expertise that enable my "privileges" in my work as volunteer. You can find some posts on this here: https://willem.com/blog/2016-11-21_being-a-volunteer-in-amst... TLDR: I am very grateful.

Someone not wearing custom luxury watch is most likely not due being afraid to make decisions for themselves. Attributing the ability to do this sort of thing to "connected world" and "people willing to help" is just distasteful to me.

I do not entirely follow your reasoning here as I never have intended to "judge" or "rank" other people's choices and decisions. The post (on _my_ blog) is about _my_ watch, not much more than that.

It doesn't help that the whole post is titled "Designing my own watch" while the actual design work was seemingly mostly done by ochs; mixing up doing something and commissioning something done is another of those things that has echoes of ages past, and not in a good way.

Naturally I agree with you that a large part of the mechanical design is done by ochs und junior; however I do think that if you take the concept a little broader it might make a little more sense: given all the options out there, I set out to have a watch created that would fit my specific wishes. When I look at the result, I very deliberately know why I made certain choices in style, size, colour, material, function, capability and weight. In that sense I did take part in the design process.

For the authors defence I do say that 5 years ago was slightly different time and back then these sort of things could pass more easily.

Thank you sincerely, reactions like those of yourself enable me to learn. That is very much one of the reasons why I like the blog. Have a nice day!


Their comment was fine. An honest take. Yours manages to be worse, policing. It brought me here. Now look where we are.

This doesn't work. Use the vote button.


Fair.

It's just interesting to me that lower in the thread with less votes there are actually insightful comments that have real content and the most upvoted comment is the one that says "this sucks because I can't afford it".

This seems to me to be an issue in a number of other places as well - the website previously known as twitter is probably a good example where someone posts something and a lot of the replies are just random hate and nitpicking about a single, irrelevant word in the comment.

I guess I just don't get why people bother to do that. And it is kind of interesting to think about - is there some way to encourage more thoughtful responses?


Exchange the mortage for a watch loan.


can the watch turn me into different aliens?


> It's all about the product, no money or energy is wasted on superflous boxes or booklets - I love this

Is it still all about the product when the product is a luxury item itself?


Yes. Of course it is. Whether the item is luxury or not is a property of the product itself.


But luxury is superfluous; perhaps even by definition.

Why lack of superfluous boxes is good when the product itself is superfluous?


The product isn’t superfluous. He needed a watch. The superfluous part was the craftsmanship that went into the watch vs buying a cheap mass produced piece.

Hence why I said it’s a property of the piece itself.


Then why choose a product with superfluous craftsmanship and praise the lack of superfluous boxes?


I can only assume he’s praising it because he cannot wear the boxes. But I’m not the author so you’ll have to ask him that question.


If you are wondering how much this thing cost, a quick look at the watch company’s site suggests that this was at least us$20k.


Probably closer to 10 - 15k usd. It's https://www.ochsundjunior.swiss/watches/annual-calendar/ which starts at CHF 8’800 / 10.3k USD.

It's not completely custom, i.e. ochs und junior is using their own design, but the blog post is a lovely showcase of why he loves the watch, and watches in general.


I know a fair amount of people with watches in this range or above, none of them custom. For a custom one this is fairly OK, I'd even say cheap...

(I live in .ch, where people love watched a bit more than I've experienced elsewhere)


Ouch, that watch does not have a $20k polish to it. Nowhere close. Neither the dial, nor the hands, nor the case.

$20k is in a ballpark of a Ressence watch [1], which, given a choice, I would choose without any hesitation.

[1] https://ressencewatches.com


If you value polish, go with your Ressence. If you value a custom watch that matches exactly your specifications, OP's choice is perfectly fine. It's obvious he will get more enjoyment that way of his money spent. Nothing wrong here.


Reading the article, the unpolished finished is part of the aesthetic he seems to be going for.


Those don’t conform to the authors requirements.

The reason he landed on that design is pretty well detailed in the article too.


Spending 20k to talk about "my own design" hipster watch. Must be nice to be that rich.


Not cheap, but if you look at what other expensive watches cost, it's actually comparable.


And that comes with a custom watch w/ a design cycle. I guess instead of paying for a store-front, sales people, advertising - this is where the cost would live.


I collect luxury watches and understand movements and case construction... I'm not trying to be overly negative, rather if someone is interested in this, how to not waste your money. People who don't know watches see "Swiss" and equate that with good and luxury.

If you want to make a custom watch, design the case and dial yourself, and buy an off the shelf swiss or japanese movement like a ETA / miyota or a sellita movement, https://sellita.ch/index.php/en/movements these are used in top luxury watches and have great accuracy and reliability.

>Base Movement

> ETA 2824-2 with 38 hours of power reserve. Manufacturer: ETA SA / Grenchen / Switzerland.

it's literally an off the shelf movement.

> Although ETA movements are now unavailable for purchase from ETA, you can still find watch parts suppliers offering replacement movements for sale. The gold tone version (see example below) appears to cost less than the silver (nickel plated) version. Prices generally range from $200-$300 USD, but at the time of this post, the gold tone 2824-2 can be purchased for $236.20 USD here, and the nickel plated for $262.42 USD here.

The main thing that drives the cost in something like this is the movement, and this doesn't have a custom movement at all, there's no way the rest of this is worth around 10k.

Without a nice dial I don't really see the point.

It's like putting a ferrari engine in a mini. Sure it's incredibly cool how it works, but I couldn't imagine buying one of the watches, and I am a watch collector.

The dial and hands design and quality looks just so so poor. The huge lines in the case pieces don't inspire much confidence in the craftsmanship either.

Obviously the article mentions they want the case to be unpolished which is fine if the machining wasn't so poor.

The buyer obviously thought they were getting something custom because they showed him a few CAD screenshots, but the watchmaker is selling this on their website still.

From the image where the caption reads:

> The curved case design is very comfortable on the wrist, as there are no sharp edges sticking in your arm

This isn't even correct, it's literally got flat lugs which do not curve on the wrist.


> this doesn't have a custom movement at all, there's no way the rest of this is worth around 10k.

It has an annual calendar module added on. Surely that's semi custom and worth something, considering how expensive the calendar watches usually are.

(edit): actually there's a secondhand annual calendar longines on chrono24 for less than $2000 so maybe not worth that much. Probably still quite novel though.


I re-redesigned my own watchface. The result is that the hour-indicator grew bigger and bigger, because that is the main need when the sun is not shining. https://github.com/timonoko/Amazfit


That was the last watch with "trans-reflective" display. If I turn the seconds-indicator off, it runs for a MONTH aka 700 hours.

Our goal for battery life is 18 hours after an overnight charge -- Apple Watch


Amazfit watches and their custom faces were amazing!

Not very durable, though. I bought one for each family member once and loaded a custom face.

That is more fun that commissioning a 20000$ watch from a Swiss watchmaker.


Only problem is that the strap turned into spaghetti in 4 years. Battery life is still OK.


Do you mean the last watch under that brand? There are definitely others (eg my Bangle.js could go for a week without a charge)


The watch is a so-called "annual calendar", which means it can show the correct date with only one manual adjustment per year (during February). An annual calendar "knows" the difference between short and longer months.

I could see how one could create a simple mechanism for that (the expression is basically 30+(m+(m&8)&1)-(m==2)* 2, a sort of odd-even sequence with a discontinuity), but staring at the diagram it doesn't seem to make sense - the month disk rotates a little bit each hour, and the date ring is driven off the month disk?


As I understand it:

- The base movement turns the date wheel every day at (or, typically, just before) midnight via the 31 teeth on that wheel.

- The single tooth on the date wheel drives the five-pointed cog. I gather that this must turn the month wheel two teeth—probably one tooth when changing from 30th to 31st and a second tooth when changing from 31st to 1st, though I do not see exactly how this works. (It looks like the date wheel finger would only turn the small cog one tooth per month, and the small teeth on that cog look like they would only interact with the longer teeth on the month cog.) On short months the long teeth on the month wheel are in turn are nudged by the second, shorter finger on the hour collar at about 3am on the 1st (while the date wheel is still showing 31), which causes the month wheel to advance the second tooth almost a day early, and this must cause the five-pointed cog to nudge the date wheel to advance from the 31st to the 1st (though again I am not sure exactly how that works).

- The long finger on the hour collar turns the day-of-week disk 1/14th turn at 6am and 6pm, resulting in that wheel making a complete turn every 7 days. Thanks to the long dash of colour on this wheel, one dot is shown 6am–6pm while two dots are shown 6pm–6am.

Watchfinder made a pretty good video about it, though slightly hampered by the owner of this particular watch having chosen just about the lowest-possible contrast colours for the indicator dots: https://youtu.be/28LYcZJ6hHE


It looks like the disks can rotate and still show the same day or month due to the stretched markings


I'm a big fan of modern tech and I don't think I'd enjoy wearing anything that expensive!

But it's a really cool piece of art and I thought the depth of the dial was especially interesting. From afar or in pictures, a watch looks like a 2D display, and since we mostly only see them in pictures, it's easy to forget that a lot of analog tech was subtlety 3D.

With most natural objects, when you see a picture it's obvious it's just a picture and there's a third dimension, but with mechanical devices it sort of feels like you're looking at a picture of an old fashioned screen, and you never notice that there's depth you don't see.

Highlighting that aspect is a really cool design choice.


The weird thing about a watch like this is that nobody is going to know enough to steal it unless you tell them what it is (or...put it on the internet, I guess). It's also small and super low-key, and therefore, not at all hip in today's watch market.

You're more likely to have your phone stolen. Thieves are all about risk/reward: they want your Rolex Sub or your (gaudy, ugly, huge) Royal Oak, which they know they can flip for a huge profit.


author (from 2020) here:

This is exactly true: the watch offers a kind of "security by obscurity" most better known watches lack.

It is a "if you known you know" thing. At the same time it is a very hard sell (for any potential thief looking for quick money) as the watch is unique in its configuration and mostly "meaningless" for other people (rather than me).


I'd be a lot more worried about damaging it then theft, since I'm constantly running into furniture


Anything you own will eventually get scratched. Past bracelet scratches, mechanical watches are rather hardy - unless you're buying something particularly rare and complicated the standard ETA and Seiko movements you'll get in most brands (as well as the house movements of major brands such as Omega and Rolex) will handle physical shocks just fine. I don't exercise wearing a mechanical watch, but that's as much due to sweat and weight and tracking heart rate as any risk of damage.

You can get comparatively affordable mechanical watches that are sufficiently shock, magnetism, and water resistant to do anything normal people will do in their lives. If you're an underwater welder, astronaut, EE professor, or other career with esoteric risks, obviously do your own research and maybe just buy a GShock.


A great point made by saying a watch is such a personal preference. This watch is very well constructed from the best materials but I would never want to wear it myself. I'm happy the author likes it!


Some tangentially related trivia: in The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy Douglas Adams writes:

"Orbiting this at a distance of roughly ninety-two million miles is an utterly insignificant little blue green planet whose ape-descended life forms are so amazingly primitive that they still think digital watches are a pretty neat idea."

My interpretation of this was that digital watches are such simple technology that the fact we like them means we are easily impressed.

His thesis was much deeper though and I have since found multiple accounts of his explaining that, at the same time as everyone was excited about the fact that pie charts could be produced to easily visualise data on a personal computer, we were also removing what is essentially a pie chart from our wrists and replacing it with something numerical. Here it is straight from the horses mouth:

https://youtube.com/watch?v=P0keUhMiZ44


That's wonderful, thanks for sharing: Adams is extremely cunning in his satirical look at the humanity.

Not that I agree: "pie charts" for tracking time (and otherwise) are useful when you need to roughly and quickly compare how much time is left in a day.

But we have since moved to it being important if something happens in 14:37 or 14:42, which is hard and slow to decipher on a pie chart.

Now, one could argue we are primitive if we have moved in that direction instead of being more lax with time instead.


I rather enjoyed the video essay Technology Connections did about the seemingly different mental models of tracking time that come from analog and digital clocks, and how a lot of people now have barely ever experienced analog clocks.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=NeopkvAP-ag


After a decade or two of not wearing watches, and always looking at my laptop or phone for the time, analogue stopped making sense to me. I recently got a gorgeous casio lineage radio controlled (and solar powered) analogue watch, so I had to relearn telling the time!

Like Technology Connections says, the minute hand is a progress bar, but I found I got confused about the hour hand. It points at, apparently, 5 o'clock, but it's actually 4:55, because the hand just doesn't line up so precisely in the visual field. A watch with just the hour hand would be less accurate, but less confusing.

I since found out about jump hour watches, that display the current hour as a digit (in a little window like you see for the date) and have a minute hand. That makes more sense to me.


I've been a ardent fan since I first read H2G2 ~15 years ago, and this is the first time I've seen and heard Adams speak. Thanks for sharing.


I was convinced that it was because at the time h2g2 was written, "digital watches" were actually LED watches, which required that the user press a button to see the time displayed for a few seconds! (also the case for some of the first LCD models)

low power LCD watches were popularised in the early 80s


He does actually mention in that video the need to press a button …


> day and night: with a young kid, the distinction between night and day becomes fuzzy every now and then.., any bearing the watch can provide in total darkness is welcome!

Hmm, I don't see any feature on the watch that would help OP tell whether it's 7 am or 7 pm under a cloudy sky. Am I missing a subtle 24-hour indicator, or is he just referring to the super-luminova on the hands and dial?


If I understood the watch website correctly, the weekday marker shows 2 dots instead of 1 during AM.


You'd think the marker under the weekday could be a different colour when it shifts to pm


I’ve just started down the path of designing a smartwatch using a Pi Pico. Mine will probably not be super smart (at first) and it will have a very large case (something I like).

https://www.makervoyage.com/raspberry-pi-pico-smartwatch


I've been looking for a decent watch of my own, albeit it much cheaper.

My requirements are simple: eink/epaper display, a splash of color (red would be fine), circular display, light/visible at night, programmable watch face.

Closest thing I've seen is watchy, wearPico, bangle.js, but they all seem slightly wrong somehow.


Look at Garmin MIP (memory in pixel) watches?

You can make your own watch face in a half of weekend, which will include, as a bonus, learning their own dialect of C :)


Can't guarantee for the splash of color but I've had my eye on Fossil Hybrid smartwatch gen 6 for everything else you mentioned. It's maybe worth a look?


Side note on watches, every time I consider buying a watch I always am drawn to the metal strap/band. I don't mind leather or cloth but personally metal seems like it would be smoother on the skin....and if I need to clean the band I just throw it in an ultrasonic cleaner


Not sure if it is because I had bad quality metal bands or I am just too hairy. The ones I had were far from Swiss Watch level but I wouldn't call them cheap. I always had the problem that they hurt because they ripped out small hairs.

It's nice that you can shake off any water from them and they are instantly dry and also that you can thoroughly clean them.


Metal bands are a bitch if you ever need to type on a laptop though.


I actually found the opposite - metal bands tend to pinch me due to the segmented design. Other materials where the strap is all one piece are much more comfortable to wear.


It's almost always better and cheaper to get the bracelet with the watch and buy the strap later. Good quality/branded bracelets are expensive.


One thing to keep in mind is that metal bands can sometimes be heavier and less flexible than leather or cloth


Fun fact: a collab with ochs und junior eventually led to photographer Ming Thein spinning up his own watch brand, now quite popular with collectors. https://quillandpad.com/2015/11/09/design-your-own-watch-a-c...

(The brand: https://www.ming.watch)


I can appreciate the looks and the engineering, but it would drive me crazy to figure out the current date on that watch. I think readability is super important for watches, and at least for the date, this one isn't really that readable at all.

It's less of a problem, but the low contrast between the hands and the face is also not that great for readability.


This looks gorgeous.

Here is my wishlist for my ideal watch:

1. Automatically adjusts to the timezone I'm in, including accounting for daylight saving time

2. Analog watch face with zero visible electronic displays

3. Connects to google calendar and has a haptic signal when something is about to start or end on my calendar

4. 2 hours of charging lasts for 1 year

5. Precise enough to act as a PTP grandmaster source.


I settled on a Seiko Astron GPS Solar on my last Japan trip and am very happy. It is missing the number 3 and 5 as it is not a smart/connected watch but its tech excites me every time I think about it. So if you’re willing to sacrifice or want to have an alternative watch to your smart watch, I highly recommend looking into it.


I am pleased to see a Junghans Max Bill watch smack at the center of the top display. The other ones are way too busy for my taste, except maybe the digital Seiko.

The self-designed watch camouflages its functionality with minimalism, and the day and month displays proceed in mathematically positive direction. I like it.


For my money the Milgauss is the standout of that montage. I've always loved the "quirky" colours, and the lightning-bolt hand stands out a little.

But watches are pretty personal, and it's okay to have different tastes. I like that the author knew what was important to them - for me I avoid Roman Numerals, and subdials as both look too busy. I try to avoid date-complications for the same reason, and if I must have them I abhor the cyclops.

My watches range from the casio terrorist, through mass-produced soviet pieces that were made before I was born, all the way to high end Swiss pieces. I still wake up and change my watch based on what kinda mood I'm in, or what I'm doing.


Such watches can become something like a family heirloom, passed down from generation to generation


I've been wearing a Yeswatch daily since V1. Newest V7 world watch has wireless recharging. Titanium case is light and strong. Not for everyone (it's chunky) but I'm a big fan.


Oh there are actual watches with analog 24h display.

I felt very smart when I wrote my watchface for my galaxy s2 tizen/vue watch with 24 hour display years ago.

I also managed to build in timer/stopwatch functions to save battery (webworker) and it has a cucumber counter (I ate over 400 cucumbers a year back then).

After some tizen update on the watch, the certificates didn't work anymore and I couldn't install it on my watch. I gave the watch away straight away.

https://ackro.org/~mit/stuff/myClaw/


We need a Raspberry Pi hardware and community, but for wrist watches.



I've been lusting after an Ochs und Junior for a while now -- very clever and great design. Implementing complications like perpetual calendars off of workhorse calibres is just amazing.


I find these watches super boring.

Ok, there is a philosophy behind the choices, but aesthetic is about risk and about making choices. If you need to remind yourself why something is nice, it isn't.


This strikes me as a better compromise than a high end mass produced watch. If you wanted to stand out and wear a conversation piece, this seems like a better choice.


Original author here (from 2020):

Thanks! A watch (like any apparel) indeed functions as a communication piece (other than its function of time keeping).

Over the years of wearing it I have had only some folks inquiring about what it exactly is I am wearing. People ask out of honest curiosity, not because they suspect some value (because of a shiny logo or precious metal).

For what it is worth, in addition to the having the actual watch it is also nice to know the people who created it. It is a very small brand, you really have a chance of getting to know the "artists behind the creation". I like that as it adds to the (personal satisfaction) of the story of my watch.


Did cell phones cannibalize watch sales like they did camera sales? I always wonder who needs a watch now when it is extremely rare you don’t have a cell phone.


Phones, not really. But Apple Watches/Smart watches/fitness trackers/wearables have really hurt. There has been a big drop in Swiss watch unit sales since 2015.

https://www.statista.com/statistics/303755/number-of-swiss-w...


> Apple Watches/Smart watches/fitness trackers/wearables have really hurt.

Sales in the most expensive category have grown, in the second most expensive category is fairly flat. It's only the cheaper price brackets that have seen large declines.

But even then, I'm not so sure how much smart watches have hurt the overall market. I prefer to wear an inexpensive analog watch and recently purchased a new one (for just the 3rd time in about 30 years). The available variety was absolutely huge; companies like Casio are releasing lots of vintage-inspired watches in the sub-$100 price point.


This has created a new niche in the watch market


Watches are superior to phones imo. It's way more convenient to simply look at your wrist than it is to dig your phone out of your pocket.


Watches remain popular for their practicality, style, and status


Last night I watched The 'Venture Bros.: Radiant Is the Blood of the Baboon Heart'. If it wasn't for the dialogue below I would have been very confused by the use of 'complications' in TFA!

Ben: Hey kid, I wanna give you something. Your grand-pap gave me this before your dad was born.

Hank: Is it more dumb news? You gonna tell me who my mom isn't?

Ben: Nah. Just a watch. GMT Master. Venture Blue Dial. Tells the time in two time zones.

Hank: It's heavy.

Ben: That fourth hand there, the little date window, those are called complications. Complications make a watch special. More complications the more valuable. Read the engraving Jonas put on there.

Hank: [reads] "Elige Tua."

Ben: Eh. Close enough. It's latin for "Choose your family." Blood doesn't make a family. Love does. Your grandpap knew that. Choose your family, and remember, the complications make it special.


Cool! I've never heard of this shop before, thanks for sharing your experience.


The straps look cheap




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