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If you click in the book, it's right in its description:

  Kissa by Kissa is a book about walking 1,000+km of the countryside of Japan along the ancient Nakasendō highway, the culture of toast (toast!), and mid-twentieth century Japanese cafés called kissaten.
And per my experience and what I've been told from locals, the "No gaijin allowed" is only common if you're visiting certain industries (sex work, striptease, and the like...), maybe yakuza owned underground-ish dicey bars, and areas near American military bases were soldiers have been known to cause problems.

When Japanese don't want to deal with foreigners, maybe because racist reasons, or just because they don't feel like explaining the rules or etiquette of a place to an outsider, they will just tell you the place is closed (even when busy), forbidden, busy (even when empty), or some other nonsense excuse.




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