Site is nearly unusable on mobile Safari due to ad infestation. We’ve hit peak dystopia when an archaeology blog needs this much nonsense. My screen was comical, looks like when the Aqua Teens get all the pop ups invading their house.
It’s funny, the button for readability mode pops up for a second but once the ads are inserted the readability button disappears. I was same to load the article by refreshing and clicking the button before it disappeared.
That seems to be just how Safari works. I have an ad blocker installed, see no ads on the page, but the reader view button is replaced with an “Aa” button after a few seconds.
Tap the “Aa” button to reveal a menu with “Show Reader View”.