Because they’re new and expensive? And surely that means “sample size small so consequence unstudied” rather than “this stuff is bad to eat”?

Sure, what I'm saying that it also doesn't mean “the existence of health vegetarians is testament to the healthiness of veggie-‘meat’.”

But cheap meat isn’t that healthy to start with, so we have quite a low bar to pass.

Why cheap meat isn't healthy? Are cheap vegetables healthy?

Good point. I'm not sure expensive meat is that healthy either. We'd probably eat more cheap meat than expensive meat though, so if it's all unhealthy then we might want to think of cheap meat as more-unhealthy.