I'd argue that the contemporary infatuation with mastery of complex toolchains as being the only possible solution to modern technical problems is far more horrific.
Smart businesses focus on simple, effective solutions and avoid hiring engineers who obsess with rewriting everything using the latest over-hyped technology.
Why so? They just haven't jumped on the meme-tech train, at least wrt to this setup.
Running an actual process on an actual server has been around since time immemorial, as has doing the "atomic" deploy thing (which I'm guessing is just updating a symlink from cold to hot).
Look at almost all successful companies and they're pretty "boring" under the hood: GitHub and Stripe are Ruby on Rails, Facebook is PHP, Google is Java (still almost all new code written in 2020)... it gets the job done. Yes, they do some optimizations (HHVM etc.), but nobody is considering rewriting FB, Stripe or Google services in the language du jour.
The complexity of the infra and deployments are always relative to the size of the company, and no two companies are alike there. Small or big, it's all bespoke. Even if a few pieces are shared as open source projects, there's a veritable iceberg of complexity in the form of inhouse knowledge and tooling in each of the companies, there is nothing even close to a standard deployment system in either green field startups or FAANGs today.
That seems a little bit simplistic for today's workflow as there's chances you'll need to to restart php-fpm anyway, discard/refresh some cache (Doctrine metadada ...), maybe update your composer / vendor directory and its autoloading files, maybe run db migrations and more.
second this. I haven't needed cap in a while for the work I'm doing, and I don't often see it mentioned (perhaps because I'm not looking) but it's a fantastic tool for managing atomic deployment.